The sound of gongs can be heard from the musicians as the traditional dancer starts to dance, cups are filled with rice wine, the audience anxiously wait for their favourite Unduk Ngadau to win and this signifies the long awaited Pesta Kaamatan or Harvest Festival has begun in Sabah. This sacred celebration is closely tied to the Momolian belief, an ancient religion to the indigenous tribe of Kadazan-Dusuns.
“Bambarayon”, which is the spirit or the soul of paddy, is often spoken and heard of when the calendar hits May in Sabah. The new generation may know little to none of Bambarayon’s origin and how it is significant with the celebration, but they do acknowledge its importance.
According to the tales of the old tribe of Kadazan-Dusuns, Kinoingan (a deity) and his wife, Suminundu, sacrificed their daughter named Huminodun. It all began when Kinoingan casted 7 curses due to the sins that was made by his people. Severe drought and famine was the worst of the curses that left the people with little food to consume since most of their crops were destroyed. Day by day, the curse haunted the people until Kinoingan took pity on them and decided to lift the curse. The Bobohizan (Kadazan-Dusun high priestess), insisted that there was only one way to reverse the curse, and that was with a sacrifice.
Because of this, Huminodun, offered to sacrifice herself to enable her body to be transformed into rice to feed the people. Ever since her sacrifice, harvest was bountiful thanks to Huminodun. It is believed that Huminodun’s spirit still lives in every grain of rice, which is called Bambarayon or Bambaazon, the spirit of the paddy.
Today, even though many Kadazan-Dusun have embraced Christianity and Islam, the celebration of Kaamatan still lives on. Every year on May 30th and 31st, Kaamatan is signified with a state-wide celebration to honour Huminodun’s sacrifice. Despite the different beliefs and religions, Sabahans would gather to celebrate in harmony. In an homage to the tradition and culture, the new generation celebrates the past, present and future of their people.
What is a celebration without a feast? Kaamatan is the time when you go on a food hunt of the amazing traditional Kadazan-Dusun foods that are only available once a year. Some might be still alive and wiggly! Yes, the infamous giant sago grubs or commonly known as ‘Butod’ is a delicacy in Sabah and they are eaten alive. Feeling a bit daredevilish? Just simply pick our friendly Butod, bite off its head and pop the body in your mouth to taste the explosion of creamy flavour in your mouth.
If you are not up for the challenge, there are tons of other local delicacies that are a must try such as Hinava, a famous local dish that is made with fresh fish/squid/shrimp, with a mix of lime juice and bird’s eye chili. Another typical traditional dish is the ‘Linopot’- rice that is served with fried fish, yam, cassava, sweet potato etc. and wrapped in a big leaf. Done with the food and on with the beverages. Rice wine is a must when it comes to Kaamatan. Prepare yourself for the different types of home-brewed wine such as ‘Lihing’ and ‘Tapai’ that are served traditionally in a clay jar.
This one deserves a drumroll, one of the major highlights that keeps the fan going is the annual Unduk Ngadau (Harvest Queen). Unduk Ngadau is derived from the word ‘Runduk Tadau’, meaning, ‘the girl crowned by sunlight’ and it is a highly anticipated pageant as each district would compete to win the title of Unduk Ngadau. In honouring the tale of Huminodun, this pageant represents the values and love of the people which she embodies. Contestants are asked a number of questions to which are required to answer in the Kadazan-Dusun language.
The state level Unduk Ngadau takes place at the Kadazan-Dusun Cultural Association Sabah (KDCA), in Penampang. This is the location that you want to be during this festival as you can witness the richness of Sabah’s culture from the traditional dance, attire, arts and music, and the local delicacies, of course. People start to gather at KDCA as early as mid-May and continue to visit the place until the event summit on the 30th and 31st.
Decades have passed and everything may have changed, but our traditions are still going strong. Modernisation may have taken over our society but the roots of our culture are interminable. No matter what background, religion or belief, we would sit down at the same table and toast to the celebration of Kaamatan. In this Harvest Festival we all can foster the spirit of unity and togetherness despite our differences, that goes with the Kaamatan slogan this year, “Kaamatan Mongubasanan Do Pisompuruan” (Kaamatan Enculturates Unity).
You might have missed the Kaamatan celebration and its excitement but there are other ways to enjoy Sabah’s culture as well. Mari-Mari Cultural Village has various activities that we are able to do during a day trip.
To learn more about this tour do get in contact with us via the website or Whatsapp us at +60193263800.